Patek Philippe Ref. 5015 and Ref. 5396.

Sports watches are all the rage these days, and the Cheap Patek Philippe watches  blue-face 5711 is hard to come by, and this year marks the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus. It’s definitely a topical series, and Aquanaut’s 5167 is a popular fried chicken, but I always thought that the The Calatrava is a timeless classic with a simple and elegant look. The 5015 was my first performance Patek Philippe purchase in the 1990s, and the 5396 is the most functional in terms of overall shape and design. Appealing to me.

The appearance of Patek Philippe’s 5015 officer case with openable back cover, perfect performance layout and magnetic white dial is a perfect combination.

Watches with a strong classicist style and craftsmanship usually have a classic look, which is timeless, irreplaceable, and can be handed down. A classic that will always be dear to the heart. In the 1990s, Patek Philippe introduced the 5015, an officer’s case with an openable caseback, a perfect performance layout and a magnetized case. The white dial was a classic model that drove many fans of the watch crazy. The most special feature of the 5015 is its moon phase, which has the ability to indicate the “age of the moon” with 135 teeth. to an error of only one day every 122 years, so a pointer running at the same pace as the month was added to the middle of the moon phase display window, and A day-by-day scale was added above the umbrella window of the moon phase so that the date of the lunar calendar could be clearly displayed, the first of its kind that year. A watch with this feature is well worth collecting.

This is the earliest platinum version I have, the hallmark is still an antelope head rather than a St. Bernard dog head, and it belongs to a pre-1995 vintage! Hallmark. The 5015 is powered by a Cal.240 movement with a micro-rotor in 22k gold, unidirectional winding and is a thinner version of the Design, thickness 2.4MM, frequency 21,600 vibrations, equipped with a single layer of alloy hairspring, by the balance wheel can change the eight torsional pitch It is a new generation of self-winding movements developed by Patek Philippe in the 1970s, with the Masselotte counterweight screw to fine-tune the speed. It has been in use for nearly 40 years and can be found in models up to the perpetual calendar, performing quite competently. The officer’s case with an opening back has been very popular, and the subsequent 5059 Perpetual Calendar and 5013 basic models have been well received. Good, the 36mm scale is optimal, and although it looks a bit too small now, the classic will always be intriguing. Incidentally, Patek Philippe 5227 has the Calatrava model, but it also has the exclusive design of an open back clearance, which is the only one of its kind. A classic among classics, well worth owning.

Patek Philippe’s 5396 ivory white dial and arrow-shaped hands are the most attractive classic style in all the PP calendars.

Patek Philippe’s 5396 has had a total of three dial designs to date, the first 5396 being a railroad split scale, willow leaf hands. Very elegant, the second generation of the 5396 has the same performance configuration, but the ivory dial and arrow-shaped hands are very attractive to me, playing with the watch. The 5396 has been in my collection for a long time, as all of my friends know the deadly attraction of watches and how hard it is to get rid of a poisoned watch. The 5396’s charm is irresistible: the bar-shaped hour markers are fitted with a bead splitting scale and two apertures at the bottom of the 12 o’clock display, from left to right, showing The day of the week and the month, there is a twenty-four hour performance displayed by the hands around the lower moon dial, so it is easy to understand the morning and afternoon time. In the part where the date is changed, the hand slowly shifts the date at 11:40 p.m. and bounces at about 12:40 p.m., when the calendar It is a bit muddled and muddled to the left, and not until 1:30 a.m. that it is righted to the right again and returns to the correct position. It’s a problem with the overall design of the calendar structure of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, which is common to all annual calendars and which I prefer. Being concerned.

The 324 of the first generation is a Geneva Seal, my 5396 belongs to the first batch of the second generation, also a Geneva Seal, and after this batch That is why I switched to the Patek Philippe Seal. According to the manufacturer, the accuracy of the Patek Philippe Seal has been improved and I am very concerned about whether it is more accurate than the chronometer! Certified level, it’s a good thing that the 5396 with the Hallmark of Geneva is in good condition, about three seconds faster a day, which is already very satisfying! .

The 324 movement equipped with the 5396 increased the seismic frequency from 21600 to 28800. The accuracy is better, the automatic disk is thickened, and the winding performance is also improved.

The pre-1970s Patek Philippe automatic calibres 600 and 460 are collectors’ items and are considered to be the finest of all players. The model, characterized by precision and durability, good winding efficiency, and a Gyromax balance with a double hairspring, is almost flawless. The 28-255 was used by Patek Philippe from the 1970s onwards, the best known model being the first generation 3700 with a 42mm diameter. Stainless steel is currently trading at around $50,000 and is a collector’s item, followed by the introduction of the 240 and 310 calibers. The heart of Patek Philippe’s automatic watches, but these successors had nothing to do with the initial 600 and 460 in terms of design or system. Totally different, unlike IWC’s Pellaton system, even after nearly sixty years the latest movement is still the same. It uses a “woodpecker” winding mechanism. Patek Philippe has now adopted the 324 movement, which is similar in construction to its predecessors in the 300 series, including the 315 and 330. For comparison, the eight Masselotte counterweight screws on the inside of the balance wheel have been replaced with four, with the factory claiming that fewer screws help the Balance of the balance wheel.

In the early days of the Patek Philippe Calibre, the counterweight screws were mounted on the balance ring in a complicated process that was later modified for mass production. The screws are installed on the inside of the balance wheel, which is less difficult to make, but in fact, 6 or 2 screws are just as good for fine-tuning effect. It will do the job, except that the eight are still in the style of the early Patek Philippe, which was a favorite of Patek Philippe fans. The 324 also increases the frequency from 21,600 to 28,800 for better accuracy, a thicker rotor, and improved winding efficiency. Basically, it is a partial improvement in performance, and now with the replacement of the silicon crystal hairspring and other escapement mechanisms, it has improved the accuracy of the runtime.

The 5035, the first annual calendar model launched in 1996, is an unprecedented feature. In its twentieth year, Patek Philippe introduced the third dial, the 5396, with a sword-shaped hand for the Arabic numerals in plain English. It doesn’t match, but it would be better with a willow leaf hand, which would be a perfect combination with a Breguet hand. Patek Philippe’s 5041 or the limited edition 5153, created for London last year, also have Arabic letters and Breguet hands, which are the perfect combination for a watch like this. The clock is the classic orthodox way of doing things.

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